Archer Shirt, though no archery for me yet.

My first ever button-up shirt!  A relatively pain-free experience with Grainline’s wonderful Archer Button Up Shirt.

Archer Button Up Shirt in cream viscose.

Archer Button Up Shirt in cream viscose.

Bit stupid of me to photograph a white shirt against a white background.  Sorry about that.

I wanted to sew something that would go with my grey Thurlow trousers, and I thought the Archer Button Up Shirt would be perfect.  My plan is to sew a wardrobe of clothes which make mix and matching possible if not easy, so I knew I needed a dress shirt.  Would you believe I don’t actually own one?  At all?  Obviously, this needed to be rectified.

I once tried to sew a button up shirt (which doesn’t count as being my first time since I never completed it) which was some kind of stiff cotton. Don’t-ask-me-to-bend-my-arms stiff.  I decided to be extra cautious and make a drapey Archer, so I decided to try viscose.  Viscose is also supposed to be less wrinkly, though I don’t think anyone has told my Archer shirt.  Still wrinkly.

Archer with French Seams and Hand-Stitched Collar

Archer w/ French Seams & Hand-Stitched Collar

There were a lot of firsts with this project, too, and I took my time with it.  I decided to sew French seams, both to learn the technique and because I thought the visose might be a little transparent.  It isn’t, and the seams aren’t visible through the shirt, but I’m glad I sewed the French seams.  The places I shop don’t have clothes with French seams.

I cut a size 2, since my measurements are EXACTLY the size 2 measurements.  Sadly, the shirt is too tight for me across my upper back.  No archery for me in this top.  It’s wearable, but I like to be able to move in the clothes I wear, which is why I like knits so much, and while I don’t expect to feel as free in woven fabrics, this shirt is definitely in the going-to-need-to-sew-another-one-to-replace-this-one camp.  I already have the viscose purchased.

Andrea’s Archer shirt hangs off her shoulders a bit (I love dropped shoulders), so I thought mine would, but you can see they certainly don’t on me.  Must be my manly shoulders.  I actually spent a couple of hours SEARCHING for a dress shirt pattern with dropped shoulders, but I could only find some 80s monstrosity.  And lots of websites telling me how hideous dropped shoulders are. And I thought they were sexy >sigh<.  Kind of casual I’m-wearing-my-man’s-shirt-with-nothing-else-but-undies vibe.  But style sites tell me I am wrong.  I am sure these anti-dropped-shoulder posts were written by women with sloping shoulders.

definitely not a dropped shoulder

definitely not a dropped shoulder

The length of the shirt is a bit short for my liking.  When I raise my arms, I like my shirt to stay tucked in.  Of course, I could remedy this by sewing high-waisted pants to wear with this Archer, but I fear this:

mom jeans

I’d rather just wear longer shirts.  Too late, I notice that Andrea added 3 inches to the length.  I will definitely be doing that on my next Archer.

I like my collars a bit larger than the one in this pattern, so next time, I will try to replace the collar piece with something from another pattern.  Also, I used a very drapey interfacing on the collar, and it really needed more structure.

I wanted a crisp collar peeking out the top of my jumper.  Someone give that collar some viagra, stat!

I wanted a crisp collar peeking out the top of my jumper. Someone give that collar some viagra, stat!

I used Jen’s Archer Sewalong Tutorial.  I expected to just be able to go by the sewalong instructions, but I actually found that I needed BOTH the pattern instructions AND the tutorial at times.

I love this pattern.  For my ABSOLUTE WARDROBE BASICS, I want a drapey white/cream top which FITS as well as a nice, crisp cotton shirting Archer.  And then I will look at the ‘extras’.  Gingham.  Plaid, maybe.   White collarless and sleeveless.  And so on.

I do still want a fitted dress shirt, but this is definitely going to be my TNT dress shirt pattern.  Yay, Archer!

Augst 2014_5731

 

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